Category Archives: Hiking

May 25 – Memorial Day Reflections

So I went off the trail for a week and used that time to get a lot done at home and to drive to Utah for Memorial Day. We are now on our way back to California and the trail and spending the night in Cedar City Utah. I will either restart on the trail tomorrow night or very early Wednesday morning based on how the driving goes tomorrow. But this gives me a little time to reflect on Memorial Day. This year Memorial Day and Pentecostal Sunday are on the same weekend. Pentecostal Sunday is basically the birthday of the Catholic Church. The day that 11 scared Apostles received the Holy Spirit and went from scared, weak men, to embolden evangelizers who proudly told of the life, death, and resurrection of our Lord Jesus Christ. Men who all endured terrible deaths rather than deny their faith. I am embarrassed to say that for the greatest part of my life, Memorial Day has meant nothing to be other than a opportunity for 3 days of self-centered activities and relaxation. However, for some reason, in 2011 I was driven to go visit my Dad on Memorial Day weekend. That weekend he showed me what Memorial Day was suppose to be as he took me to all the grave sites that he decorated with flowers and grave sites of my ancestors all around Northern Utah. This turned out to be his last Memorial Day. I believe it was the Holy Spirit that drove me to Utah that year just so that I could be trained by Dad in the meaning of Memorial Day and to continue his tradition. So for the past 3 years that is what we have tried to do. We start the trip in southern Utah (Milford) and decorate the graves to Lenora’s relatives and her sister who lived but 3 years. We then move up to Salt Lake City and decorate the graves of Lenora’s parents who are buried at Fort Williams. We then move up to Brigham City and decorate the graves of my parents and of my GrandParents and of Dads siblings. It is always a beautiful and emotional time. Here are some of the pictures….

Martha Ann Banks, Lenora's sister.  Milford Utah
Martha Ann Banks, Lenora’s sister. Milford Utah
Bill Banks, Lenora's Uncle.  Milford Utah
Bill Banks, Lenora’s Uncle. Milford Utah
Lenora's parents at Fort Williams,  Salt Lake City, Utah
Lenora’s parents at Fort Williams, Salt Lake City, Utah
General shot of Camp Williams
General shot of Camp Williams
Don's parents, Brigham CIty Utah
Don’s parents, Brigham CIty Utah
Don's GrandParents.  Brigham City Utah
Don’s GrandParents. Brigham City Utah

Let me tell you an amazing story. While I was on the trail, Lenora went to a Catholic Answers Conference and while there she met a couple from Salt Lake City Utah; Susi and Todd Brown. She told me what a wonderful couple they were and wished that I could meet them. We were in Salt Lake this last Sunday. I found a Church near our hotel that we could go to that morning. A total random act. When we arrived Lenora asked me to pick out where we should sit, which I did. A total random act. We were a little early and about 10 minutes later a couple comes in and sits in front of us. We really did not pay much attention because Mass is not a social event and we were getting ourselves ready for the service to begin. Part of the Mass is to give those around you some sign of peace to indicate that you are indeed at peach with your neighbor. The couple in front of us was none other than Susi and Todd Brown. God is at work in our/your lives!!!

Speaking of Catholic Answers, Kark Keating, the founder of Catholic Answers blogged about Lenora’s and my PCT adventures. You can see his blog here: Karl Keating Blog on PCT

Lenora’s Note: A memorial is a tribute to those who went before us. We remember their love, their service and their sacrifice. With our break from the Great PCT Adventure I find myself not thinking about finding my wet, bedraggled and discouraged spouse but rather about the legacy of those we honor. So what would these men and women who went before us think of this “Adventure”? We don’t have photos of my Grandma and Grandpa Winklers graves. They are in Canada and I’ve never seen their graves but my Grandpa Max left the U.S. to farm wheat in Saskatchewan and I think he must have had an adventurous soul. My Grandma Lenora would approve of my chosen role in this adventure. Gpa Max grew wheat while Gma Lenora grew the vegetables that fed her 9 children and the farmhands. She would understand I think my support person duties.

Gpa Charlie would think we are both crazy, he would shake his head and chuckle and inside he would celebrate his son’s courage and rejoice that retirement came in time to embark on a joint adventure. Gma Mickey would be so proud of her son and she would tell me again how happy she is that he picked a wife who would challenge him to step out of his comfort zone and experience new things. I so miss her constant love and support. My dad, Gpa Garthe had the soul of a rambler, an explorer and an unending curiosity about the world. He would want to be on the adventure with us. My mom, Gma Helen, packed the best picnic boxes in the world and she hated to be dirty. She would laugh to see her dirty tom-boy daughter electing to pack the picnic and carry treats to her husband and any hikers she encounters along the way. My dad’s mom Marie’s gravestone would not photograph it is so worn (we intend to fix that next year) but she raised my dad and his brother as a single parent and I look at her beautiful portrait and see strength and love and courage. She would wonder why a man who can buy his own car would elect to walk to Canada but she would love the impulse to see the world. My baby sister Martha Ann died at the age of 3. Her red hair fell in tangled curls beyond her shoulders even though mom tried to tame it into orderly ringlets. She ran everywhere and laughed like there was no tomorrow. She was a flash of brilliant light in our lives and she would (and does) race ahead on the trail, laughing and daring Don to catch her.

Are we crazy? Without a doubt. Do we come by it naturally. Also, without a doubt. Thank you to all those who went before us showing us that it is ok to take a chance, risk something and live fully the life God grants us.

So the consensus is on our side, it is a risk but what an adventure.

May 16 — no forward progress

I mentioned I slept until day break and what a glorious day break it was. Beautiful blue sky. I texted Lenora “what a difference a day makes”. Had I not called for Lenora to come get me during my low point I could have gone on very easily. I felt great… got some quarters from the morning staff, did laundry, took a shower, and I was pretty sure it was never going to rain again :). So lesson learned… Do not make any major decisions when you are at the low point. Try and remember all the great times that have gone before and know that those times will come again. Maintain a positive attitude. Don’t let that devil get into your brain and turn you negative. But I am also really happy to be home right now. Going to spend the week at home. Need to get a new phone and need to figure out what I need to get to keep me dryer in these times as they will come again. After Memorial Day I will start again from the KOA. This will put me a week behind my schedule BUT based on the freak storms we are having I think that getting the High Sierra’s a week later will be a good thing.

Also remember when I had the fall and lost my knife as it went down the mountain. When I got home on my birthday, I found a package from Martha. She sent me a new knife!! Of course, a bigger and better knife that before. This is a knife that will make Bears and Mountain Lions run the other way in terror.

During the stay at the KOA I talked with lots of other hikers. Most of them were much smarter that me and Shutter Bug. They knew the storm was coming and just stayed where they were for a day. So I guess with just a little bit of planning some of these things can be avoided. Who knew?? OR… I could have listened to Lenora when she mentioned that she was not happy about dropping me off given the OBVIOUS storm that was moving in.

Life is good. Love being home. Will love getting back on the trail after Memorial Day. Stay tuned and God Bless.

Lenora’s note: Friends with a faith life are one of God’s great gifts in this life. My Women’s Ministry let me vent, let me discharge some of my fear and anxiety in a safe place and prayed with me for the safety of my ‘wayward’ husband. Jean even got her volunteer training early so I could head up the mountain. My only thought was on finding Don and a little wonder at what the note “What a difference a day makes” might mean. I wondered if I might get to the top of the mountain and find he did not need rescue at all but would want to just give me a kiss and hit the trail again. I practiced my cheerful accepting response to this possibility but can now admit when he shared that he was coming home for a break I was full of joy and relief. Now home we can plan for the next leg of the ‘adventure’ to begin after the Memorial Day obligations and family time.

May 15 – PCT Mile 430 to 444

So, during the night with the howling wind saying that I woke up in the morning would really be a stretch. Basically I just kept opening my eyes and when it looked like it was getting lighter I figured it was morning. I am use to looking at my phone to see the time but my phone was not working. I realized finally that the InReach also had the time and so I looked at it and it was about 5:00 in the morning. I had to have a long talk with myself to get up. I realized by now that everything was wet. My gloves were drenched and cold. My shoes where drenched and cold. I had no idea what the weather was suppose to be like or how far I had to go to get to anywhere!!! For awhile, I thought, I am just going to stay in this sleeping bag which was warm and wait for something good to happen. Perhaps the sun would come out. The tent was covered with snow and when I peaked out it only looked cold and foggy. I will have to admit that a few words came out of my mouth that I am not all the proud off. I am in Southern California!!! It is May 15th!!! Why am I dealing with this %@%!$%^@^@^&^&!& snow and cold!! I think about 7, I figured I might as well pack up and get going. So I put my rain gear over my thermal underwear because at least that was dry. Stuffed every other thing that was wet into my backpack and started walking. About about 15 minutes I met the guy that I was following just the day before. His name was “Shutter Bug” cause he likes to take pictures (duh). Turns out he works in the film industry and is an assistant director. Really nice guy. His phone worked!! He told me that the weather was supposed to clear by 2 pm. So most of the day we were walking IN the clouds and the mist was just getting us wetter. He had the same situation that I did. The wind had uprooted the stakes of his rainfly and everything he had was soaked. He had called his girlfriend and asked her to pick him up at the KOA. KOA??? I asked. Yes, he said, there is a KOA about 13 miles ahead. About 4 or 5 hours later I was really questioning the whole 2 pm thing. I figured it was never going to stop. I was going to be wet, cold and miserable for the rest of my life. I really was at a low point of the trail to this point. When this happened before Bear Lake I accepted it much better. This somehow just seemed much worse but mainly because everything was wet and I was not sure how I was going to get it dry since it was going to rain or snow for the rest of my life. Anyway, I texted Lenora from the InReach and told her to pick me up. Originally I meant to make sure she would pick me up at Agua Dulce which is where I was suppose to be on Saturday anyway. But later, decided that she should just pick me up at the KOA which is 10 miles short of Agua Dulce. Again, at this point, I had no interest in those 10 miles. Shutter Bug and I stayed pretty close all day only because he had a bad knee. Remember I mentioned I could tell by his steps that something was wrong. With his bad knee and me in perfect condition, we pretty much walked at the same speed :). KOA was about a half mile from the PCT and when we got to the road his girlfriend was waiting and they gave me ride up to the KOA. I was never so happy to be given a ride for .5 miles!!! Arrived at the KOA at about 6 pm and about an hour earlier the sun had actually made an appearance. I was able to put out my tent and rainfly and get both of them dry before the sunset. So I was able to sleep in a dry tent that night. KOA also had a laundry where I could have done clothes that night except they did not have any quarters to give me. Had they really wanted to, there were plenty of quarters that could have found to give me from various machine they have, including the washing machine itself. BUT, it was the end of their day, they were tired, and I can understand they had a life also. But a dry tent and my thermal underwear was still dry and Lenora was going to pick me up tomorrow so all was good. For some reason (two Alieve actually) I slept great that night. It was actually the first time in the tent sleeping that I slept through the night and did not wake up till day break.

Lenora’s Note: I made it home Thursday with only minor irritations of traffic, got nails and toes ‘updated’ and spent the late afternoon and evening helping at photo sessions at St. Tim’s. Home finally about 8:30 pm I started thinking again about that lonely figure heading up the mountain trail and out of sight. All of a sudden I realized the day of the week. In about 4 hours I could go to Adoration and I decided to take my worries to my Lord. I slept well for about 4 hours and the hour of Adoration went by in a flash. Back home for a little nap and by morning I was working on Directory business and stitching a little before my shift at the photo shoot. The note “Hotel in Agua Dulce?” got me working on finding Don a dry place to stay, with little luck. The next note “What are your plans?” made me really wonder. I knew it rained and had no idea of what had happened on the mountain so thinking Don was hinting I might as well stay home while he hiked through the weekend I started to prepare to do that. Meanwhile I have a nice morning. Time with the cats, stitching, starting laundry and then off to work at church where I get the note: “I need you to get me in agua dulce” I ask “Now?” but no answer. A little later I ask “Should I leave now?’ and later still I get: “Sat afternoon is ok” So having promised to work the first shift the next morning at the church and hearing that the KOA is our meeting place for the next day I went to bed late after watching hours of recorded tv shows.

May 14 – PCT Mile 418 to 430

Ok, so what happened to miles 342 to 418? They are being left to another year. After the burn and the need to lay off until the risk of infection was gone it was decided to stay on the schedule and drop me off where I should have been at mile 418. However those types of decisions will probably change in the future because the recent “freak” snow storms in California have probably increased the snow in the High Sierra and I really will want to delay my arrival that those 12000 foot passes. Speaking of freak snow storms…… So after the Ohio Biggest Week in Birding build in delay and the extra 3 days I took off because of the burn, Lenora drove me and dropped me off at about mile 418 to restart the trek. The burn had healed and all I have left are some scars and some very pretty new pink skin on my knee. Interesting to me that the part of the knee where the skin was taken off by the boiling water healed much sooner that the part of my knee that blistered. I just figured the place where the skin was just taken off was hurt more seriously that then the blistered area and would take longer to heal. That is not what happened. So when Lenora dropped me off, it was raining and she looked up at the sky and had apprehensions and really did not want to send me off. However, I thought it was just going to be a minor thing and it would be over and so I dressed in my rain gear and headed off on the trail. We had been using my phone to get us to the spot where she dropped me off and after 10 minutes into the trail I realized I had left my phone in the car. There is no way I do this trail without my phone. So I called her on the satellite phone and messaged her via the InReach and lucky was able to get her before she was too far away. She came back, I got my phone, and off I went again. Almost immediately it started to rain and then started to rain hard and then it started to hail and then it started to snow and it never stopped. I did not get started until about 12:30 and so I was not planning to go too far and so I took out the phone to see what was ahead. This was in the rain/snow and it only took a few drops of water on the screen and my phone started acting up. I thought I saw that a place called Messenger Flats campground that was ahead that was down about 1500 feet from where I was. Great I thought, the drop in elevation might get me out of the snow. As I continued up and up I realized that I must have read something wrong. Indeed I had. Although Messenger Flats was not at the crest, it was pretty darn close at 5886 feet and the snow was heavy. As I was walking the snow was accumulating on the trail and there was about a 1/4 inch of snow on the trail. Enough that I could easily tell there was someone just ahead me and that he was having a hard time. His steps were pretty close together. As far as I could tell it was only me and him on the mountain. By the time I made it to Messenger Flats, the storm was in full force. I was wet and not only my rain gear but my clothes under were also wet. My shirt I think from sweat and my pants because my rain coat has worked its way up above my rain pains and so the wet just ran down my rain coat and then under my rain pants. I could tell the guy ahead of me also stopped at Messenger Flats but I did not see where he camped. I found a flat spot and started putting up my tent. It was snowing hard enough that my main tent got went before I could get the rainfly over it. Not too bad but a little annoying. I was able to mop up with the wet with a towel I had and was pretty comfortable once in the sleeping bag. Since I thought I was secure, I got into my sleeping clothes (thermal underwear on these cold nights) and settled in. Sometime during the night, the high wind pulled up the stakes of the rainfly on two sided of my tent and the wet started coming in. Nice and secure in my sleeping bag, I did not notice. I know, hard to imagine I would not notice but those that know me can totally understand how really unaware I can be at times. So that was my day. The second of my days where the entire day was spent in what can only be called a “freak” storm in California. Middle of May, 5000 feet, and a pretty good snow storm taking place. I was to learn later than a couple of people called 911 and asked to be rescued from the storm. I’m not sure where they were. The storm was not that bad where I was. I was miserable and wet but never had any fear that my time had come. Oh by the way, my phone sputtered for awhile but by the time I set up camp it was dead, dead, dead. Apparently my phones time HAD come. I had not done the proper homework before starting this part of the trail and had NO idea what was ahead. I am an idiot!!
Lenora’s comment: As Don walked away up the trail, rain coming down and temperature 4 degrees lower than when we approached the drop off spot I grabbed my phone and noted: “Just dropped him off at Angeles National Forest/ PCT intersection; 43 degrees, light rain but cold rain. The temp is dropping. I want him to come back. Lonely, frightened for his safety. Praying for his protection.” I sat there a long time watching him disappear the second time and drove away slowly, hoping he would turn around and wave me to come back. I did not predict the complications he would face over the coming hours but I was full of apprehension. My trip on the other hand was long, traffic heavy and rain heavier. I was sorry Don was walking in the rain but had no clue he was trudging through snow and getting ready to be so wet and so cold.

May 2 – PCT Mile 332 to 342

I had a remarkably good day yesterday after burning my knee the night before. Last night I truly slept under the stars and as I looked up at those stars I considered just how very fortunate I was. The burn was pretty bad and yet there was no pain to keep from continue the hike to where I could get it treated. While I was not prepared for such an injury with only small bandaids intended for blisters, an angel came by on a horse at the perfect time to help get the burn covered to keep in safe from dirt. As I looked at the stars, I just starting singing to myself “How Great Thou Art”

O Lord my God, when I in awesome wonder
Consider all the *worlds thy hands have made,
I see the stars, I hear the *rolling thunder,
Thy power throughout the universe displayed:

Then sings my soul, my Savior God, to thee:
How great thou art! How great thou art!
Then sings my soul, my Savior God, to thee:

I am constantly praying while I hike with either Hail Mary’s or Divine Mercy’s or just talking with God, thanking, praising, asking for favors, singing, but tonight seemed pretty special. My thoughts went to the trail Magic I had received that day. The chocolate and the oranges and how someone, some anonymous someone, had taken the time to put out the magic for hikers to use. I would think it is hard for you to imagine just how great this trail magic is. As a thru hiker you are pretty much a minimalist with food. You take just what you need to get to the next resupply point and you can not afford the weight of anything extra. So to come across magic … is…. well… magical. An orange or any fruit is just such an incredible treasure and pleasure. I wondered how different the world would be if we could all be as considerate to the sick, the poor, the homeless, the immigrant as people seem to be to PCT hikers. To hike the PCT and all that entails is my choice. However for the poor, sick, homeless it is hardly ever a choice. It is just a bad sequence of circumstances. There but by the grace of God, go I!! A mistake here, bad timing there, and my entire life would be very different. Yes, I worked hard to get where I am, but that does not mean those less fortunate worked any less hard. During the winter months the city of Escondido allows a homeless shelter but only allows a maximum of 40 people in the shelter. The 41st person gets turned away! It is not that the folks caring and providing want to limit the number but the city seems to want to limit the people. WHY? Is Escondido afraid of being known as the most generous city on the planet? I’m sure they are afraid of being taken advantage of and poor people showing up from all over the land to take advantage. I used to be afraid to give the person on the street corner with that sign that says “need work” or whatever. Do they really? OR are they trying to take advantage of my incredible good nature :). I finally decided that I did not care. That is was not under my control. If I have an extra “orange”, I might as well give it to someone who looks like they need it. If I have an extra “chocolate bunny”, why not give it to someone else. Americans are a generous people and we always chip in when there is a disaster and I think part of that is because we are sure it is a disaster, that we can help, and that we are not being played. I am going to dedicate myself to being just as generous with the people in my own community and never care if I am being played. Lately I have fallen into the trap of trying to judge if the guy on the corner is real in his need or fake. In the end, it does not matter.

Remember that lake I came upon suddenly yesterday? Here is a picture from where I camped just as the sun is about to come up. The water in the distance is that lake.

Silverwood Lake early in the morning
Silverwood Lake early in the morning

I mentioned I did not quite hike to the top of the ridge. When I do get to the top and look down this is what I will be hiking towards today and I work myself to McDonald’s and a McFlurry!!

The final push to McDonald's
The final push to McDonald’s

On the way down, I run into Wildebeest again and he is just getting ready to start hiking for the day. This time he is eating Nutter Butter cookies. Two things occur to me. 1) I wonder what Wildebeest sacrifices in order to carry all these cookies (eating Oreos last time if you remember) and 2) I wish Wildebeest would give me a cookie 🙂

A little later, Wildebeest catches and passes me, and I don’t see him when I do get to McDonald’s and will probably never see him again. I wish him well and hope he gets to complete his journey.

The hike is uneventful otherwise. It was a little hotter and dryer than I expected getting to Cajon Pass. Seemed like when I drive past this area is was greener that is today while hiking. The final mile into Cajon Pass is a beautiful little canyon with a bit of a stream and some shade. Once you come out of the canyon, there is I15 is all its beauty and you have this sign directing you to a place that I think every PCT hiker visits.

Just to make sure you don't miss McDonald's
Just to make sure you don’t miss McDonald’s

I stop and try to clean up before going into McDonald’s as I look and smell pretty bad. I have a couple cheeseburgers and 6 nuggets and lots of honey on those nuggets and a Reese’s McFlurry and about 6 glasses of Lemonade. From what I can see, I am modest in what I am eating. One guy who came in after me had 5 full meals (drinks, fries, sandwich) lined up in front of him. Since Lenora can not pick me up until Sunday, I check into the Best Western for the night. Later that day Allison and Andy show up. They are just spending the night and head out right after breakfast the next day. My hiking is over until May 14th. I need to let the knee heal such that infection is not an issue and I have a birding festival in Ohio that I am going to next week. I will be back but it will be awhile. Here is a good way to show you just how dirty I get out on the trail. The picture shows the wash cloth I used to shower and one that is clean. I tried to get the dirt out of the used wash cloth as best I could before the picture.

Dirt in abundance
Dirt in abundance

May 1 – PCT Mile 315 to 332

In the morning I took a look and the burn had not miraculously improved. I went back to the water cache again and got some more water and cleaned the area again and also drank a lot of water. With a burn I figured it was even more important not to get dehydrated. I tried to bandage the area and thought I had done a pretty good job but after a little walking the bandage has fallen off. Bad thing about the knee is that it tends to move a lot while you are walking. So the movement and the sweat took the pathetic bandage off. So I stopped and tried again with some smaller bandages on the worst parts of the burn. About this time a hiker went past me and he announced his name was Wildebeest and asked how I way. I said pretty good and he continued walking. I laughed at myself. Only a PCT hiker would say “pretty good” with a bad burn on his knee, 4 toe nails about to come off, and a blister on his heal that was so big it looked like he was growing another heal. But stuff happens and you do the best you can. Just a bit later I came to bridge with a stream underneath and Wildebeest was nowhere to be seen. Generally people get out of site pretty fast but this was ridiculous. Anyway I went down to stream to get some water and there was Wildebeest under the bridge in the shade having a snack. He was eating Oreo cookies. We talked for awhile and I found out he only could do 200 more miles because he had to get back to work. He was going to do the PCT piecemeal. Looked like he was going to stay there for awhile and so I decided to move on. Not much further I came to some trail magic that contained chocolate/rice bunnies and ORANGES and a notebook for comments. Everyone had made comments about how they appreciated the Oranges. However, there was only 1 left. I knew when Wildebeest got there and saw that there were oranges but none were left he would be disappointed. I also knew that Wildebeest would catch up to me soon and pass me. So I took the orange and saved it. About 30 minutes later, Wildebeest did catch up to me and we stopped and I shared the orange with him. It was a good moment.

Magic Orange
Magic Orange
Magic Bunny
Magic Bunny

Had been walking basically in the desert up till the time Wildebeest and I shared the orange but as we came to the crest we saw the lake in the picture below. Quite a change of scenery.

Silverwood Lake
Silverwood Lake
Lots of this around the lake
Lots of this around the lake

About half way around the lake I could tell my second bandage attempt had failed also. So I dropped my pants and sat down and tried to figure out what I could do. About that time I heard a women’s voice say WHOA!! I called out that there was nothing going on here, I was just trying to bandage a burn. Turns out the WHOA was a gal telling her horse to stop. She was the one doing the PCT by horse that I had mentioned earlier. Because she was on a horse she could carry a bit more than most of us and she had a full first aid kit. Her name was Rhonda, trail name “horse-n-around”, but I just called her angel. He gave me some proper bandages and tape and instruction to get the burned area taped so that it would stay and then she rode off into the sunset.

Horse-N-Around in the distance
Horse-N-Around in the distance

After finally getting around the lake it is time to start climbing again over the mountains towards I15 and McDonald’s. I still had lots of energy and wanted to get some of the climb finished today and so started up. I had lots of energy and the climb was pretty easy. I had the feeling that I might actually be getting use to this. It felt good. Here is a sign at the start of the climb.

Almost to McDonald's :)
Almost to McDonald’s 🙂

I did not go all the way to the top of the mountain but stopped a little short at a quaint little camping spot. It was small and so I decided to cowboy camp and just put out the mat and the sleeping bag and truly sleep under the stars. It was a beautiful night. Looking up at the stars, I had lots of thoughts which I will share in the next post.

April 30 – PCT Mile 298 to 315

This was a brutally hot day of walking and I took a number of breaks during the day and rested in some shade. For a large part of the walk you are taunted by water because you are walking along the side of the mountain and way down below there is a river with flowing water you can hear. There are also points where the water pools and you look down and think how great that would be to just jump into. At one point trail does go down to the river but at this point you are warned not to drink the water at all or submerge your head because the water has been contaminated with human waste. This spot is apparently popular to the locals for clothing optional recreation. When I passed through I did not see any evidence of that but while I was making my way out (what goes down on the PCT always goes back up) there were a number of people heading down to the pools from other paths. Once you leave that one spot you are back on the side of the mountain and the river is way too far below and too steep to allow you to go down. Eventually you walk your way out of the valley at the Mojave Dam and at this point the trail once again dips down to the river which has a good flow. I was so hot and on my emergency reserve of water and so I once again did something a little stupid. As soon as I saw a side trail down to the river, I took it. It was about 1/3 of a mile down and pretty steep and I went down and crashed by the side of the river and had something to eat and filled up my water containers and then climbed back up to the PCT. 7/10 of a mile later the trail naturally went down to the very same river containing the very same water. Just looking ahead on the map I could have saved myself a lot of energy. So at this point the trail is pretty close to civilization and there is farm land below the trail with little ponds of water and cattle grazing. I went on a little further and then set up camp after a 16.25 mile day. It was a good day. Just before I camped and just after crossing Hwy 173 there was a water cache as well with lots of perfect store bought water. It is amazing that people do this for us hikers. I am so grateful. I went about 1 mile past the cache and set up my tent, got into my sleeping clothes (short pants and a thermal underwear top) and started to prepare the evening meal.

The meals I have a prepackaged freeze dried meals. They are amazing in taste and variety. This night I was going to have Santa Fe Chicken. What you do is bring 2.5 cups of hot water to a boil, poor the boiling water into the pouch, stir it up, seal the pouch by its press and seal, and wait about 15 minutes and you have a meal. The only issue with this procedure is that I don’t have anything really long enough to stir the meal before sealing. No issue, I carefully slosh the mixture around, then seal the pouch, and then kind of massage the package and tilt it this way and that until I believe it has been mixed good. I do not know if from that description you can sense a disaster about to happen…. it generally works out great. This time however, I apparently got too rough with the massages and tilting and the seal burst open and the whole mess of boiling water and food came crashing down on the top of my leg and knee. Holly crap.. just a bit of pain. Looking down at my knee there were 2 clear spots where the first layer of skin had been removed and a very large burned area. I was not happy using the water I had (taken from rivers and treated) to try and clean a burn area and so I hustled back to the water cache, got a gallon of water, and try to clean and cool the area with lots of water. The area hurt pretty bad for a couple of hours but then subsided and I figured I would wait until morning to see what I was going to do. I did fix another meal and ate it all. Something Thai with noodles. It was good. I expected the pain to increase during the night but it did not. There was a quail nearby that sang me to sleep. Quite a noisy fellow and I was surprised at how long into the dark hours he sang.

The burn
The burn

April 29 – PCT Mile 278 to 298

The first day of my new routine and it really felt good to be walking early in the morning before the sun is burning down on me. I feel like I get many more miles in the first 3 hours of walking than at any other time of day. I mentioned in the previous post about how the trail went on the other side of the mountain at Bear Lake. This is generally the case. The trail always seems to go on the “other side of the mountain”. Where the other side is the side that is generally desert. It makes sense the trail would go on the desert side rather than the “civilized side” and I’m sure it was a lot easier to get the rights to put the trail there. The other effect of being on the “other side of the mountain” is that generally there is no cell service on the “other side” and so you only get service when you happen to wander up to the crest and/or pass over to the “civilized side” for awhile. Here is a picture of the early morning walk where Big Bear Lake is still in my view.

Early morning of Big Bear
Early morning of Big Bear

Met a young man named Kirby today. I actually caught him… how can this be? Anyway, he was a nice guy and was not in any hurry and so we kept passing each other on breaks and ended up camping at the same place this night. The camping spot was right next to a river and it was pretty and quiet. There was a town about 4 miles away and Kirby was going into town to get some needed things and so I never saw him after that. I think I actually may be faster than Kirby which means Kirby is really not in any hurry and is just taking time to smell the roses. Good for him!!

It was a 20 mile day. I like the new routine. For dinner I had risotto and chicken and I ate both servings and it was delicious.

April 28 – PCT Mile 266 to 278

So after a relaxing Monday in Big Bear it was time to get out on the trail again on Tuesday morning. Big Bear Hostel had said they would give me a ride back to the PCT at 8:30 in the morning and so I walked from the International Hostel to the Big Bear Hostel around 7:30. It was only .7 miles from one to the other but I did not want to be late. Of course I was early and they were late :). Got a ride with 3 others up to the PCT. 1 guy was a loner even by my standards and he did not say a word and got out of the car and was on the trail before the rest of us were had hardly opened our doors. The other two were a couple, Allison and Alex, and this is the couple I mentioned earlier that seemed to be in lockstep with each other. Either they had exactly the same pace at all times or Alex was just very good at going at Allison’s pace because I never saw them except that Allison was leading and Alex was a step or two behind. For the most part the PCT trail is never wide enough to walk side by side. They were a nice couple and in no hurry and because of that I saw them quite a bit for two days as we would pass each other while the other was on a break. It was fun watching and listening to them work out when they were going to stop, what they were going to eat, how much water they were going to need.

So on the ride the PCT the driver pointed to the mountains across Big Bear Lake and told us that is where you will be walking. The trail goes on the other side of those mountains mostly but comes back to this side once and when it does you will be able to see the Big Bear marina and actually see the Big Bear Hostel. I thought to myself this would probably take about an hour to happen. It took way longer and I was shocked that Big Bear Lake was still visible the next morning. Other than Allison and Alex I did not see any hikers today and I thought that rather odd as generally a number of people will catch and pass me. Must have been some lull in the number of hikers starting the trail.

Since I started on Tuesday rather than Monday, I knew I was not going to make it to my next destination which was Wrightwood and so Lenora and I worked out that she would pick me up on Sunday early sometime at the McDonald’s on I15 in Cajon pass. So I have been walking since April 6 and on May 2 I should reach Cajon pass and I15 which will take Lenora about 2 hours to drive to. I figured I could make that distance pretty easy as it was only 80 miles and I had 5 days to hike it. So I stopped after 12 miles on the first day and set up camp. I’m not sure when it hit me but some time that night I realized that 5 times 12 is NOT 80!!! I think I did that bit of arithmetic while I was gasping for air going up some mountain. So now I had some catching up to do. During that night I decided to come up with an actual routine. I have always been a morning person and yet I was getting up on the trail later than usual and getting a late start. I have so much more energy in the morning than the afternoon and if I was going to make more miles it was clear I had to hike more hours. Faster was just not happening. So the routine for the rest of the week and probably the rest of my hike was going to be this:

4:30 wake up
5:00 really wake up
5:45 have a little bit to eat. Small piece of summer sausage generally
6:00 start hiking
9:00 to 10:00 stop and have a big piece of summer sausage and some hot chocolate (so at least a 20 minute rest)
1:00 stop to have lunch. Generally a package of smoked Salmon
3:00 stop for some sort of snack.
5:00 start looking for a camping spot. Set up tent and fix evening meal. A hot meal and eat a lot.

Notice at 3 pm I finally get back to seeing Big Bear Lake
Notice at 3 pm I finally get back to seeing Big Bear Lake
What can I say, I like to take pictures of signs
What can I say, I like to take pictures of signs
Wild Flowers around Big Bear
Wild Flowers around Big Bear

April 26 – PCT Mile 253 to 266

This is Sunday and was suppose to be a day of rest in Big Bear, but I was still 13 miles from Big Bear. In the tent I was trying to make a decision. Should I stay in the tent and just rest for the day or should I push on to Big Bear and try to catch a late Mass. I thought this day was suppose to be repeat of yesterday with a cold miserable day, a possibility of snow, and a night below freezing again. Based on this I decided I really should get up and walk. Turns out the forecast was the same AS yesterday and not for today. The day turned out to be a beautiful clear and fairly warm day and it was a nice hike into Big Bear. I was not at all sure where I was going to stay in Big Bear. I figured it was going to be the Big Bear Hostel but they were not answering their phone and they has posted signs on the trail that there was not room at the hostel for the 24th and 25th. No mention was made of the 26th. Also on the trail was an advertisement for the International Travel Hostel which offered a discount to hikers and provided both an evening meal and a morning breakfast as no charge. I called them but they also did not respond to my call. So there was a little uncertainty during the day but I figured someone in Big Bear there would be a room open that I could stay at. About 4 miles from Big Bear I ran into 2 young ladies walking the trail from Big Bear. They both had backpacks on and were actually walking towards the PCT hikers to offer them some refreshment. They had juice drinks, candy bars, and beer. I opted for a juice drink and it is really amazing how such a little thing can lift you up and propel you forward. I figured if I had a beer, I would just lay down on the trail and go to sleep and tomorrow they would find me frozen to the trail. They told most hikers were opting for the juice drink rather than the beer. Below is a picture of the magic they gave me. I saved the can and took a picture of it later at the hostel.

Magic that propelled me into Big Bear
Magic that propelled me into Big Bear

The PCT intersects HWY 18 about four miles from Bear City and 9 miles from Bear Lake. As I reached Hwy 18 there was a car operated by Papa Smurf (one of the next big Trail Angels) and he was bringing 3 people back to the PCT to continue the hike. He asked if he could pray over the hikers, they said yes, and he said a little prayer for their safety and that they would enjoy what they experienced. I was very moved by this. I would have like to stay at his place but his place was like Ziggy and the Bear’s with only an open area. I asked if he had ear plugs and he did not and so my snoring paranoia kept me from going to his place. He taxied me to the International Hostel which has private rooms for $25 a night. Papa Smurf said he wanted to get a look at the place. I gave him a good donation for doing that for me and will probably send him more later to further his ministry of helping PCT hikers.

The hostel was a comfortable and an interesting place. The free dinner they had that night was BBQ. Great. So what was set on the table for dinner was BBQ hot dogs, BBQ hamburgers, BBQ chicken. I had 1, 2, 2 respectively. There was nothing else on the table and so a balanced dinner it was not but it was good and I enjoyed it. The next day, Monday, I spent the day getting resupplied for my next section. Lenora was not able to be at Big Bear but sent a package to the Big Bear Hostel which I picked up. While there they gave me a hard time for not staying with them. I explained I tried but since they refused to answer their phone and posted messages about no room being available I did not even check. They finally admitted that they were closed for the whole weekend. However they said they would give me a ride back to the trail when I was ready. The hostel had dozens of inspiration sayings taped all over the lodge. Here is an example of one:

A little inspiration
A little inspiration